Spiny Oyster Jewelry

Unearthed and revealed in ancient Hohokam, Anazazi and Mogollon archaeological sites, the spiny oyster shell, commonly referred to as spondylus, found its way into the American Southwest through a flourishing trade network that stretched from the arid mesas of New Mexico to the scenic beaches off the Gulf of California. Whether utilized in Native American jewelry as an article of adornment or revered for its ceremonial significance, the beautiful spiny oyster shell has been an important to Native American artisans for at least a minimum. To better comprehend spiny oyster jewelry, a closer look at the shell and its different uses in Native American jewelry is necessary in communicating its importance.

No longer limited to the Gulf of California, the oceanic origin of spiny oyster shells transcends the boundaries of North America, allowing for a diversification in color that would have been unavailable six hundred or more years ago. The dominant colors of red and orange were prevalent in the majority of spiny oyster jewelry made by the prehistoric and modern Southwestern tribes of the Navajo, Hopi, Zuni and Rio Grande pueblos, until the recent additions of the colors purple, white, and to a lesser extent, yellow. Regardless of the color, the spiny oyster shell received its name because of the obvious spines or thorns protruding from the backside of the shell. Depending on the tribe, spiny oyster jewelry often reflects its artistic specialties.

As a prelude to Mediterranean coral, the spiny oyster shell provided the red that became synonymous with the Southwest. Used in combination with turquoise or independently, spiny oyster jewelry consists of earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces and pendants. The Navajo use wedge-shaped spiny oyster jewelry as an addition to a pair of Jacla earrings, highlighting the curve while adding color to the turquoise. The Zuni, masters of inlay, use pieces of spiny oyster as an addition to silver bracelets and rings in channel and mosaic work. The Santo Domingo, known for their beadwork, meticulously shape and string spiny oyster shells into single and multi-strand necklaces. The whole spiny oyster shell alone can also serve as a centerpiece for the jewelry piece and is often decorated with a mosaic inlay of jet, mother of pearl and turquoise. No matter the use or particular form, spiny oyster jewelry enriches the collections of both the novice and expert, providing an alternative to the traditional metals of western jewelry.