Navajo Jewelry Guide
Earliest History of Navajo Jewelry
The Navajo have called the alluring and legendary Four Corners region of present day Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah home for centuries. With resources derived from the surrounding mountains, pre-colonial Navajo jewelry consisted of abalone shell from the San Francisco Peaks of Flagstaff, white shell from the Blanca Peak of southern Colorado, and turquoise from Mount Taylor in majestic New Mexico. By using crude stone, wood, and obsidian tools, early artisans of Navajo jewelry meticulously carved the rough shapes and edges of the blue and greenish hues of turquoise into decorations of adornment. By painstakingly hand-drilling holes into the abalone shells with a careful ease to avoid cracking, the items were then available for proper placement on necklaces and earrings. Although there have been several evolutions of the design and artistry of Navajo jewelry since these earliest beginnings, all of these evolutions have stayed true to its original roots.
Navajo Jewelry and the Silversmith
The eventual colonization of the Navajo and the subsequent assimilation of ideas that followed brought about a significant addition to Navajo jewelry. During the nineteenth century, the Navajo learned and mastered the trade and art of the silversmith by first observing the Spanish and then consequently learning from the Mexicans. Bracelets, once made of copper and brass, were predominantly made of silver, both for preference of material and aesthetic value. The silver used in Navajo jewelry was formed out of existing material such as wire, coins, and sheet metal. The silver jewelry was thicker and heavier than later years, due both to the materials used and the need for durability.
From the 1830s until the 1870s silver jewelry lacked the adornment of stones due to the inability to bevel, so a focus on design took precedence. One of the methods used to place designs on the silver was by rocker engraving, which involves the back and forth motion of a chisel, all while moving in a forward direction. Influenced by other cultures, many of the designs on Navajo rings and bracelets were similar to the leather stamps used by the Mexican blacksmiths. Improving on another design, conchas worn as hair adornments by the Plains tribes were transformed into belts. As a prelude to things to come, silver beaded necklaces, containing a crescent looking pendant called a naja, were the predecessor and catalyst to the modern squash blossom necklace. With the return of the Navajo to their sacred land in 1868, Navajo jewelry began to be refined, thanks to the improved skills of the master artisans and accessibility to new tools.
Navajo Jewelry and the Railroad
From the 1880s though 1900, the railroad into the southwest brought about increased trade and instrument availability. Artisans perfected and developed the skills necessary to set stones by beveling, in which small slivers of metal, when folded, encase the stone. The ability to bevel allowed stones of turquoise and coral to be set in rings, bracelets, belts, belt buckles, earrings, and pendants. With new tools, designs became more intricate and easier to achieve due to the ability to stamp silver, as opposed to using the chisel method. Designs that once only used one or two dyes now used three or more, and the method of hammering from the underside, called embossing, became commonly used. Concho belts, once attached to leather, were now smoldered together forming a continuation of metal. The ability to shape silver beads into petal looking flowers, when worn with the naja, created the squash blossom necklace. The improved skills of the jewelers, accompanied with the close proximity of the railroad, increased awareness of Navajo jewelry and the demand from tourists increased.
Navajo Jewelry Today
During the twentieth century, Navajo jewelry started to become a mainstream commodity. Once worn for personal adornment, the Navajo jewelers were manufacturing jewelry for the market place. By experiencing with new techniques, the heavier silver jewelry used previously became replaced with a lighter form, thus, allowing for a greater production in volume. Forges previously formed by charcoal are now done with a blowtorch. Commercial soldering became commonplace, making it relatively easy to fuse silver in comparison with earlier laborious methods. The task of smoothing was delegated to sandpaper and stones became machine-cut. The transition and refinement of the jewelers craft in creating Navajo jewelry has evolved over time. Although designs and styles have changed, the combination of silver, turquoise, and red coral are forever a mainstay in modern jewelry.